The cuisine: Fruit and
sausage kolaches, cinnamon rolls, other breakfast-y
Kolache Bakery comes from restaurant first-timer Erin
Duffey, a former commercial pilot who, after losing his
job, decided to open a Czech-inspired kolache bakery. A
friend at long-running Kenner's Kolache Bakery in
Arlington took Duffey under his wing, showing him the
ropes of kolache-making and the day-to-day basics of
running a kitchen.
October, Duffey's opened in a strip mall near North
Tarrant Parkway. It's not destination dining, but for
the north Fort Worth corridor, it's a nice change of
pace from doughnut shops, with an added convenience: a
drive-through window. Sure beats driving all the way to
the Czech Stop in West, too.
The food: Fruit-filled
kolaches and sausage klobasneks (or sausage kolaches)
are his big sellers. The square, open-face kolaches (99
cents each) come in a dozen varieties, from apple to
cherry to cream cheese, and there are four kinds of
sausage rolls ($1.30): sausage and cheese, bacon and
cheese, jalapeño sausage, and an all-beef link. The
compote fruit fillings for the kolaches are premade, and
the sausage comes from major suppliers such as Eckrich.
bread is made in-house, every day, and this is where
Duffey's excels. Sometimes, bread on kolaches can be
thick and dense, but the bread on Duffey's fruit
kolaches had a noticeably light and fluffy texture,
requiring little tugging. Our favorite was the poppy
seed kolache. Honey was used to sweeten the filling,
resulting in a candied flavor.
two types of cinnamon rolls offered ($1.80 for large,
$1.30 mini), we preferred the mini cinnamon rolls,
bite-size, with a pleasantly chewy texture, and smeared
with a rich cream cheese icing. Also impressive was a
Danish melt-a-way ($2), a folded pastry sprinkled with
crushed pecans and trimmed in buttercream icing.
addition to sausage kolaches, there's a ham and Swiss
cheese roll that, at $3, seemed like a real bargain.
With its large browned and buttered dough shell, it had
the size and appearance of a calzone; inside was chopped
ham and melted Swiss cheese. It was simple and good.
The atmosphere: Inside is a
tight squeeze -- there are only four tables. And when
the place gets busy on the weekends, it can be chaotic
inside; use the drive-through.
The details: Hours are 6 a.m.-noon daily. Major credit cards
accepted. No alcohol served. Smoke-free.