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Fort Worth Star-Telegram


Duffey's Kolache Bakery adds Czech breakfast option to north Fort Worth


Fruit Kolaches

Photo: Paul Moseley


Duffey's Kolache Bakery

8333 SoHi Drive, Suite 100

Fort Worth


Posted 12:58pm on Thursday, Dec. 01, 2011


The place: Duffey's Kolache Bakery


The cuisine: Fruit and sausage kolaches, cinnamon rolls, other breakfast-y items.

The backstory: Duffey's Kolache Bakery comes from restaurant first-timer Erin Duffey, a former commercial pilot who, after losing his job, decided to open a Czech-inspired kolache bakery. A friend at long-running Kenner's Kolache Bakery in Arlington took Duffey under his wing, showing him the ropes of kolache-making and the day-to-day basics of running a kitchen.

In late October, Duffey's opened in a strip mall near North Tarrant Parkway. It's not destination dining, but for the north Fort Worth corridor, it's a nice change of pace from doughnut shops, with an added convenience: a drive-through window. Sure beats driving all the way to the Czech Stop in West, too.

The food: Fruit-filled kolaches and sausage klobasneks (or sausage kolaches) are his big sellers. The square, open-face kolaches (99 cents each) come in a dozen varieties, from apple to cherry to cream cheese, and there are four kinds of sausage rolls ($1.30): sausage and cheese, bacon and cheese, jalapeño sausage, and an all-beef link. The compote fruit fillings for the kolaches are premade, and the sausage comes from major suppliers such as Eckrich.

But bread is made in-house, every day, and this is where Duffey's excels. Sometimes, bread on kolaches can be thick and dense, but the bread on Duffey's fruit kolaches had a noticeably light and fluffy texture, requiring little tugging. Our favorite was the poppy seed kolache. Honey was used to sweeten the filling, resulting in a candied flavor.

Of the two types of cinnamon rolls offered ($1.80 for large, $1.30 mini), we preferred the mini cinnamon rolls, bite-size, with a pleasantly chewy texture, and smeared with a rich cream cheese icing. Also impressive was a Danish melt-a-way ($2), a folded pastry sprinkled with crushed pecans and trimmed in buttercream icing.

In addition to sausage kolaches, there's a ham and Swiss cheese roll that, at $3, seemed like a real bargain. With its large browned and buttered dough shell, it had the size and appearance of a calzone; inside was chopped ham and melted Swiss cheese. It was simple and good.

The atmosphere: Inside is a tight squeeze -- there are only four tables. And when the place gets busy on the weekends, it can be chaotic inside; use the drive-through.

The details : Hours are 6 a.m.-noon daily. Major credit cards accepted. No alcohol served. Smoke-free. Wheelchair-accessible.



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